Life (and Food) during Wartime

A World War II–era cookbook takes baking a casserole as seriously as prepping for D-Day

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Black and white image of a couple sorting through food rations

American army troops bring their own food rations to the kitchen of their hostess, February 1944

Photo: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix / Alamy Stock Photo

By Kirsten Lew

Nov 08, 2023

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“ATTEN-SHUN”

So opens a 1943 booklet called Look Who’s Cookin’: A Wartime Cooking Course for Young America. An illustration shows three teenagers standing tall, carrying, respectively, a large spoon, fork, and knife instead of weapons. The book is one of nearly 200 cookbooks at the Getty Research Institute (GRI) at it paints a unique picture of life during wartime.

A black-and-white illustration shows three young people standing at attention with a spoon, fork, and knife in place of rifles next to the word "ATTEN-SHUN"

Illustration from Look Who's Cookin’: A Wartime Cooking Course for Young America, 1943, p. 1. Southern California Gas Company

When the U.S. entered World War II in 1941, every aspect of American life was mobilized toward the war effort—including food. Nationwide rationing placed allowances on products like sugar, coffee, meat, oil, butter, cheese, and milk. Every individual was issued ration books filled with tickets that capped how many of these items they could get per month. With these kinds of restrictions, keeping families well fed required planning and creativity.

A collection of ration books, and ration stamps. One says "United States of America War Ration Book One"

Collage of US World War 2 War Rations Books, issued 1943.

Photo: Sheri Blaney / Alamy Stock Photo

That’s where this booklet came in. It was published by the Home Service Department of the Southern California Gas Company—yes, the same SoCalGas you pay every month for your hot water. You may be wondering what business a gas company had putting out a cookbook. Well, starting in the 1920s, gas and electrical appliances like stoves, ovens, and refrigerators became increasingly common in American homes. That meant big changes for how Americans cooked. To teach people how to make the most of these modern conveniences, utilities across the country created home service departments. They were staffed by thousands of professional home economists, many of whom were women college graduates, who held classes and demos showing how these appliances helped make life easier.

A black-an-white illustration shows a young person standing in between a refrigerator and a stove with smiley faces and hearts above them

Illustration from Look Who's Cookin’: A Wartime Cooking Course for Young America, 1943, p. 16. Southern California Gas Company

Cookbooks like this one would have been available at these kinds of demonstrations. But what makes it unique is how it typifies the prevalence of wartime mobilization, even in everyday tasks. First of all, it portrays girls and boys sharing in kitchen duties, speaking to the relative gender parity in the 1940s that came when the U.S. government started actively encouraging women to take jobs in factories, the military, and other industries that had previously excluded them. With traditional homemakers now working outside the household, it was up to everyone else at home to pitch in.

A black-and-white illustration of three young people looking at a table on which are a flour sifter and measuring spoons

Illustration from Look Who's Cookin’: A Wartime Cooking Course for Young America, 1943, p. 8. Southern California Gas Company

The second thing that makes this book unique is that it is suffused with military lingo. Menus are called “mess plans,” food is “chow,” and if you’re hosting dinner, you’re the “C.O.” (Commanding Officer). This language reflects the messaging used in wartime propaganda to connect folks at home to the troops fighting overseas and encouraged national feelings of solidarity. Particularly for teenagers too young to work or enlist, it was a way of making even domestic tasks feel like part of the war effort.

Black-and-white illustration of three young people looking at an oversized map showing paths to different dinner courses

Illustration from Look Who's Cookin’: A Wartime Cooking Course for Young America, 1943, p. 25. Southern California Gas Company

But that doesn’t mean people on the home front were going hungry. On the contrary, the book emphasizes nutrition and eating from all the food groups each day. For a society going through rationing, the daily recommendations are surprisingly generous. For instance, one suggested brunch menu is comprised of five hearty courses:

Fruit Compote
Wiener Scallop
Apple Sauce Custard
Butterscotch Slices
Milk

Never heard of wiener scallop? Well, here’s your chance to try this extremely filling wartime dish:

Wiener Scallop

Serves 12

12 medium-sized potatoes, cooked
Salt
Pepper
12 wieners
1 or 2 eggs
4 c. milk
2 c. grated cheese
1 c. buttered crumbs

METHOD: Slice 8 cooked potatoes in quarter inch slices and place in oiled baking pan. Season. Arrange wieners on potato layer. Cover with remaining potatoes, sliced. Beat eggs. Add milk. Season. Pour over potatoes. Sprinkle grated cheese and crumbs over all. Bake 1 hour at 325F.

Explore the GRI’s gastronomy collection.

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