Note: The abandoned historic rock-bound city of Petra, famous capital of the Nabataean Arabs, was known through ancient texts but remained unexplored by westerners until 1812. The location held a fascination for the Victorians despite the difficulties of getting there, and descriptions trickled out. The traveler, topographical artist, and writer Edward Lear was an early visitor and this view of the amphitheater was made under extremely adverse circumstances, as Lear recorded in his detailed journal (now in the Houghton Library, Harvard). He reached Petra on April 13, 1858 after a six-day camel journey and was 'more delighted and astonished than I had ever been by any spectacle'.Lear immediately set about making drawings of the site, doing so 'uninterruptedly until it became too dark to see the marks of my pencil'. Overnight a rowdy mob of 100 men from various local tribes gathered around his camp, demanding payment for crossing their land. Deciding that he could not negotiate with such a diverse group, he gave orders in the morning for the tents to be taken down in preparation for leaving, and slipped away to make 'a last drawing at the theatre', the sheet proposed here for acquisition, inscribed 14 April, 7.30am. As Lear described it: 'I had not long to devote to my drawing from the upper part of the theatre; yet how vivid and enduring are the memories of that half-hour! The pile of vast rocks before me was dark purple and awful in the shadows of the morning, and the perpendicular walls of the wild rent of the Sik were indescribably grand, closed almost at their roots, but reflecting bright sky and white clouds in the stream which burst through them among thickets of oleander and broom and rushed onward below the semicircle of the ancient theatre cut in the living rock below me.' After making the sketch, Lear wrote his name on the wall of the chamber of the Khazneh so that if he was killed a search party would know that he had reached Petra.On Lear's return to the camp he found that the crowd had doubled and become even more agitated. He and members of his party were roughed up and their pockets were emptied. In the end they were allowed to leave, Lear's visit much shorter (and infinitely more dramatic) than he had originally planned.Lear's choice of blue paper probably reflects the cool early morning light and purplish rock colors he sought. His many pencil color notes on the sheet result from his habit (particular vital in these circumstances) of sketching the scene quickly in pencil and then adding the watercolor later in the studio. Some of the few watercolors made by Lear in Petra survive in the Houghton Library. Lear used a selection of his watercolors as the basis for oil paintings, which he sold - with limited success - at the Royal Academy in London. In 1859 he made an oil of the theatre at Petra based on this watercolor; the oil is now in a private collection in Jordan. | |