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ID: 300231662
Page Link: http://vocab.getty.edu/page/aat/300231662

 

Record Type: concept
needle lace (lace (needlework), needlework (visual works), ... Visual and Verbal Communication (hierarchy name))

 

Note: With "bobbin lace," one of the two primary types of handmade lace. It is characterized by being created with a needle and thread on threads laid down over a pattern, using basically only one stitch is used, buttonhole stitch and the knotted buttonhole stitch. The process is believed to have been developed in Italy in the fifteenth century, inspired by drawn-thread work and cutwork on linen. Generally, the design is drawn on a piece of paper or parchment that is backed with cloth or another material; the design is outlined with a stitch that serves as the supporting framework for the piece. The filling and pattern are worked with a needle and a single thread in a succession of buttonhole stitches that do not penetrate the backing; stitches are worked in close rows to form the solid parts of the pattern and loosely to form a mesh. Straight lines of stitching may be added to support further stitches; bobbin-made or woven tape is sometimes used for parts of the design. A knife is passed between the two layers of backing to release the design.
 
Terms:
needle lace (preferred,C,U,American English-P,D,U,PN)
needlelace (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
lace, needle (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
needle-point lace (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
needlepoint lace (C,U,LC,American English,UF,U,N)
lace, needle-point (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
lace, needlepoint (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
needle point (lace) (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
needlepoint (lace) (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
needle-made lace (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
lace, needle-made (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
lace, needlework (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
lace, point (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
needlework lace (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
point (needle lace) (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
point lace (C,U,American English,UF,U,N)
needle-point (lace) (C,U,British English-P,UF,U,N)
針織花邊 (C,U,Chinese (traditional)-P,D,U,U)
針繡花邊 (C,U,Chinese (traditional),UF,U,U)
zhēn zhī huā biān (C,U,Chinese (transliterated Hanyu Pinyin)-P,UF,U,U)
zhen zhi hua bian (C,U,Chinese (transliterated Pinyin without tones)-P,UF,U,U)
chen chih hua pien (C,U,Chinese (transliterated Wade-Giles)-P,UF,U,U)
naaldkant (C,U,Dutch-P,D,U,U)
Nadelspitzen (C,U,German,D,PN)
Nadelspitze (C,U,German-P,AD,SN)
Nähspitze (C,U,German,UF,SN)
Nähspitzen (C,U,German,UF,PN)
trina (C,U,Italian-P,UF,U,N)
encaje de bordado (C,U,Spanish-P,D,U,SN)

Facet/Hierarchy Code:  V.VC

Hierarchical Position:

Hierarchy of Objects Facet
Objects Facet
Hierarchy of Visual and Verbal Communication (hierarchy name)
.... Visual and Verbal Communication (hierarchy name) (G)
Hierarchy of Visual Works (hierarchy name)
........ Visual Works (hierarchy name) (G)
Hierarchy of visual works (works)
............ visual works (works) (G)
Hierarchy of <visual works by material or technique>
................ <visual works by material or technique> (G)
Hierarchy of needlework (visual works)
.................... needlework (visual works) (G)
Hierarchy of lace (needlework)
........................ lace (needlework) (G)
Hierarchy of needle lace
............................ needle lace (G)

Additional Notes:
Chinese (traditional) ..... 與「梭心蕾絲」(bobbin lace)同為主要的手工蕾絲,特色是將線圍成圖案再以針線縫製,僅使用釦眼縫(buttonhole stitch)或結粒式釦眼縫(knotted buttonhole stitch)其中一種針法。一般人認為此技法源於十五世紀的義大利,靈感來自抽紗製品及亞麻布上的剪孔繡。通常會先將設計畫在紙張或羊皮上,底下墊著布或其他材料,再以針法勾勒出設計的外型輪廓。圖案是以釦眼縫完成,且不會穿透背面。圖案實心的部份是以綿密的針法完成,寬鬆排列的針法則可用來縫製網眼,另外,也可用直排針法加以固定。有時會以捲線軸編織或編織線帶來完成部份設計,最後再以刀劃過兩層布料之間,針織圖案就大功告成。 
Dutch ..... Een van de twee belangrijkste typen handgemaakte kant, naast 'kloskant'. Het wordt gekenmerkt door de werkwijze, waarbij een patroon van draad met naald en draad wordt bewerkt. Er wordt in principe maar één steek gebruikt, de knoopsgatsteek en de geknoopte knoopsgatsteek. Het procedé zou in de 15de eeuw in Italië zijn ontwikkeld, geïnspireerd door ajourwerk en cutwork op linnen. Meestal wordt het ontwerp uitgetekend op papier of perkament, waaronder stof of een ander materiaal ligt. Het ontwerp wordt geschetst met een stiksel dat dient als het ondersteunende raamwerk voor het stuk. De opvulling en het patroon worden aangebracht met naald en enkele draad, met een reeks knoopsgatsteken die niet door de ondergrond worden gehaald. De steken worden in dicht bij elkaar liggende rijen aangebracht om het patroon op te vullen of verder uit elkaar om een maaswerk te vormen. Ook kunnen er rechte rijen steken worden toegevoegd. Een geklost of geweven lint wordt soms gebruikt voor onderdelen van het ontwerp. Het ontwerp wordt met een mes van de ondergrond losgemaakt. 
German ..... Mit der “Klöppelspitze” die am meisten vorkommende von Hand hergestellte Spitze. Sie ist charakterisiert durch ihre Herstellung mit Nadel und Faden auf Fäden, die über ein Muster gelegt werden, wobei grundsätzlich nur eine Stichart verwendet wird: der Knopflochstich und der verknotete Knopflochstich. Es wird vermutet, dass sie in Italien im 15. Jahrhundert entwickelt wurde und von der Durchbruch- und der Ausschnittstickerei auf Leinen beeinflusst ist. Meistens wird das Muster auf ein Stück Papier oder Pergament, das von hinten mit Stoff oder einem anderen Material verstärkt ist, gezeichnet; das Muster wird nachgenäht mit Stichen, die als festigender Rahmen des Stücks dienen. Die Füllung und das Muster werden mit einer Nadel und einem einzigen Faden in einer Folge von Knopflochstichen genäht, wobei der Rücken nicht durchstochen wird; die Stiche werden in dichten Reihen ausgeführt und formen so die festen Teile des Musters und schließlich Maschen. Gerade Linienstiche können hinzugefügt werden, um weitere Stiche zu befestigen; geklöppeltes oder gewebtes Band wird manchmal hinzugefügt. Mit einem Messer werden der Rücken und das fertige Stück voneinander getrennt.  
Spanish ..... Con "encaje de bolillos" es uno de los dos tipos principales de encaje hecho a mano. Se caracteriza por ser creado con aguja e hilo sobre hilos que se colocan sobre un motivo usando básicamente un sólo punto, punto de ojal y un punto de ojal anudado. Se cree que el proceso fue desarrollado en Italia en el siglo XV, inspirado en trabajos de deshilado y point cupé en lino. Generalmente el diseño es dibujado sobre una pieza de papel o pergamino que es reforzado con tela u otro material; el diseño es contorneado con una puntada que sirve como marco soportador de la pieza. El relleno y el motivo son trabajados con una aguja y un hilo individual en una sucesión de puntos de ojal que no penetran el refuerzo; las puntadas son trabajadas en hileras para formas las partes sólidas del motivo y sueltamente para formar una malla. Pueden añadirse líneas rectas de las puntadas para soportar otros puntos; cintas hechas de bobinas o tejidas son a veces usadas para partes del diseño. Un cuchillo es pasado entre las dos capas del refuerzo para realzar el diseño.  

Related concepts:
distinguished from ....  hairpin lace
..................................  (crochet (needlework), needlework (visual works), ... Visual and Verbal Communication (hierarchy name)) [300132888]

Sources and Contributors:
針織花邊............  [AS-Academia Sinica Preferred]
...........  大英百科全書線上繁體中文版 May 28, 2012
...........  牛津當代大辭典 1229
針繡花邊............  [AS-Academia Sinica]
...........  國家教育研究院-雙語詞彙、學術名詞暨辭書資訊網 28 July, 2014 March 25, 2010
...........  智慧藏百科全書網 May 28, 2012
chen chih hua pien............  [AS-Academia Sinica]
...................................  TELDAP database (2009-)
encaje de bordado............  [CDBP-SNPC Preferred]
................................  Miller, Enciclopedia de Antigüedades (1999)
lace, needle............  [VP]
.......................  Getty Vocabulary Program rules
lace, needle-made............  [VP]
................................  Getty Vocabulary Program rules
lace, needlepoint............  [VP]
................................  Getty Vocabulary Program rules
lace, needle-point............  [VP]
...................................  Getty Vocabulary Program rules
lace, needlework............  [VP]
.............................  Getty Vocabulary Program rules
lace, point............  [VP]
.......................  Getty Vocabulary Program rules
naaldkant............  [RKD, AAT-Ned Preferred]
....................  AAT-Ned (1994-)
....................  Textielwaren, EEG-terminologie
Nadelspitze............  [IfM-SMB-PK Preferred]
.......................  Frauberger, Handbuch Der Spitzenkunde (1894) 15
.......................  GND - Gemeinsame Normdatei http://d-nb.info/gnd/4361942-3
.......................  Hartenstein, Systematik für Spitzen und Stickereien (2006) IRI: 00000266
.......................  Wortschatz Universität Leipzig [online] (1998 -) “Nadelspitze”, accessed 8. Dezember 2013
Nadelspitzen............  [IfM-SMB-PK]
.......................  AAT-Deutsch (2012-)
Nähspitze............  [IfM-SMB-PK]
....................  Frauberger, Handbuch Der Spitzenkunde (1894) 15
Nähspitzen............  [IfM-SMB-PK]
.......................  AAT-Deutsch (2012-)
needlelace............  [VP]
.......................  Earnshaw, Needlelace (1991)
needle lace............  [VP Preferred]
.......................  Cunnington et al., Dictionary of English Costume (1965) 283
.......................  Earnshaw, Identification of Lace, 2d ed. (1984) 154
.......................  Emery, Primary Structure of Fabrics (1966) 324
.......................  Encyclopedia Britannica Online (2002-) "Needle lace." Accessed 04/10/2001.
.......................  Freshman, LACMA, Elegant Art (1983) 244
.......................  Gilfoy, Fabrics in Celebration (1983) 30
.......................  Ginsburg, Illustrated History of Textiles (1991) 216
.......................  Grove Dictionary of Art online (1999-2002) "Textiles: Needle lace." Accessed 04/10/2001.
.......................  Levey, Lace (1983) 122
.......................  Mayer-Thurman, Raiment for the Lord's Service (1975) 358
.......................  Webster's Third New International Dictionary (1961)
needle-made lace............  [VP]
.............................  Emery, Primary Structure of Fabrics (1966) 324
needlepoint (lace)............  [VP]
...................................  Clabburn, Needleworker's Dictionary (1976) 185; needlepoint
...................................  Earnshaw, Identification of Lace, 2d ed. (1984) 154; needlepoint
...................................  Getty Vocabulary Program rules
...................................  Ginsburg, Illustrated History of Textiles (1991) 216; needlepoint
...................................  Random House Dictionary of the English Language (1987) needlepoint
...................................  Webster's Third New International Dictionary (1961) needlepoint
needle point (lace)............  [VP]
...................................  Cunnington et al., Dictionary of English Costume (1965) 283; needle point
...................................  Getty Vocabulary Program rules
...................................  Levey, Lace (1983) 122; needle point
...................................  Oxford English Dictionary (1989) needle point
needle-point (lace)............  [VP]
...................................  Getty Vocabulary Program rules
needle-point lace............  [VP]
................................  Emery, Primary Structure of Fabrics (1966) 324
needlepoint lace............  [VP]
.............................  CDMARC Subjects: LCSH (1988-)
.............................  Encyclopedia of Textiles (1980) 558
.............................  Wingate, Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles, 6th ed. (1979) 412
needlework lace............  [VP]
.............................  Cunnington et al., Dictionary of English Costume (1965) 266
point (needle lace)............  [VP]
...................................  Getty Vocabulary Program rules
point lace............  [VP]
.......................  Cunnington et al., Dictionary of English Costume (1965) 269
.......................  Earnshaw, Identification of Lace, 2d ed. (1984) 155
trina............  [VP]
..............  Cassell's Italian Dictionary (1983) 541
zhen zhi hua bian............  [AS-Academia Sinica]
................................  TELDAP database (2009-)
zhēn zhī huā biān............  [AS-Academia Sinica]
................................  TELDAP database (2009-)
 
Subject: .....  [AS-Academia Sinica, CDBP-SNPC, IfM-SMB-PK, RKD, AAT-Ned, VP]
............  AAT-Ned (1994-)
............  Textielwaren, EEG-terminologie
 
Note:
English .......... [VP]
.......... Encyclopedia Britannica Online (2002-) "Needle lace." Accessed 04/10/2002.
.......... Grove Dictionary of Art online (1999-2002) "Textiles: Needle lace." Accessed 04/10/2002.
Chinese (traditional) .......... [AS-Academia Sinica]
.......... TELDAP database (2009-)
Dutch .......... [RKD, AAT-Ned]
.......... AAT-Ned (1994-)
.......... Textielwaren, EEG-terminologie
German .......... [IfM-SMB-PK]
.......... IfM Berlin
Spanish .......... [CDBP-SNPC]
.......... TAA database (2000-)

 

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