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Lesson Plans

Coils and Drape Molds

[ Thread ][ Subject ][ Author ][ Date ]
Marilyn Juda Orlandi (marilyn.juda)
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 21:28:27 +0100 (MET)

Try covering your molds with a piece of thin cotton material before draping
over them. The clay won't stick to the mold and the material moves with the
clay when it shrinks so it doesn't crack.

Also coil designs are great INSIDE of molds such as pots, plastic bowls,
frying pans, etc, but always lining with a piece of cotton material for the
same reasons as above.

In fact rolling out your slabs on material can give interesting textures,
try burlap, or corduroy, or a heavy weave. Makes the slab work more

Marilyn Juda-orlandi
Monte Porzio Catone, Italy

>Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 12:55:58 -0500
>From: One of the Colmans <colmans1>
>Subject: Drape mold
>I have been experimenting with drape molds in my high school ceramics class.
>I made solid molds by filling plastic bowls with plaster. The students
>invert these and build a pot on the outside. They have been using
>embellished coil designs instead of a solid slab of clay to cover the mold.
>The problem is that by the time they finish ( it usually takes 3 to 4 class
>periods) it is very difficult to remove the pot. The pot seems to really
>stick to the mold when the clay is still fairly moist. If we wait until it
>is closer to leather hard, it tends to crack. I realize that the clay is
>shrinking and that is why it's cracking, but I don't know when the optimum
>time is to remove the pot. Are the kids presing onto the mold too tightly
>when they construct their coil designs? Also, has anyone found any
>interesting containers to make molds out of that are a bit different from
>the traditional bowl? I'd like to be able to do platters etc. Thanks! Marian