As an added thought on Alix's low relief sculptures covered in foil (see her
text below), I also have done these with students using O'Keeffe for
inspiration - got beautiful flowers, skulls and city and landscapes. We just
used posterboard in lieu of cardboard (local paper company donates it so I
use it for everything possible) and the results were great.
FUN ADDITION: Before the kids covered the completed relief sculpture with
foil, they inked them up and printed them to paper as collagraphs (or is it
collographs?). As a bonus, the ink also helped the foil adhere to the plate
so it didn't have to be glued. Then they taped the excess foil to the back.
Afterwards, they embossed details into the foil and patterns in areas.
I hung these as a display at the front of the school with the prints beside
each appropriate aluminum foil relief sculpture, starting alternate rows with
print/foil then foil/print for a checkerboard effect. It added lots of color
and attracted tons of interest. One set I matted side by side and gave to the
paper company as my annual token of appreciation. They loved the different
use of their material.
BRAYERS: If you haven't tried the relatively new (to me) foam brayers, they
work really well for all the relief printing projects I've tried. They are a
lot cheaper than the traditional semi-soft brayers I had ordered in the past
and have held up well. I get better results and it also helps some when kids
apply too much ink.
FOILING NOTE: When students are doing regular foil embossing (the pencil or
craft stick on aluminum or copper foil), remember to have the students emboss
from both sides so that they get relief and incised lines. I realize us "old
timers" take this for granted, but no one had mentioned it on this listserv.
Love all the great ideas! Thanks to all of you.
> 1) Low Relief Sculpture: Students use a cardboard base and add
> layers of cut-out cardboard shapes; the more layers the better.
> When the armature is done, it's covered with white glue. Pieces of
> lightly crinkled foil are placed over the gluey armature and then
> patted into all the cracks and crevices. Large pieces will require
> multiple pieces of foil. After the surface dries, the foil along the
> edges is trimmed to one inch and then turned and glued onto the back.
> Students then blot black tempera paint onto the front surface, let it
> dry for 5 minutes and then buff it off with multiple paper towels.
> To hang the sculpture, we hot-glue a large paperclip to the back.
> This technique simulates embossed metal very well. We have used it
> for medieval shields in social studies as well as in art class