Note: To protect the privacy of our members, e-mail addresses have been removed from the archived messages. As a result, some links may be broken.

Lesson Plans


Re: Ceramics 2, P-Clay, etc.

From: L Skeen (lpskeen@living-tree.net)
Date: Mon Jan 31 2000 - 23:21:16 PST

LM Paris wrote:

> Wow, you have some great ideas. Unfortunately I have no choice over the prerequisites. It
> is my first year in the district and am not the core ceramics teacher.

Too bad. Perhaps as you're around longer you will be able to have some input so the class
order makes sense and builds on experience. :)

> As for the wheel work, there are only 2 good wheels and a 3rd so-so wheel. It is not
> the focus of the course, unfortunately. <snip> Do you think what you recommended is
> still possible with 4 sections of Ceramics2/Advanced Ceramics?

No way; not with only 3 wheels, unless you only have 6 students in each class. In fact, I
don't see the point in calling the classes "ceramics 2" or "advanced ceramics" if all you
can do is handbuilding, but then, I"m a wheel-throwing potter and admit prejudice in that
department. Try this instead:

Ceramics 1 - learn basic methods of using clay, including additive technique, subtractive
technique, joining, coiling, slabs, pinch pots, and combinations of pot types. Projects to
include basic pinch, coil, and slab pots, plus sculpting of a familiar object (their own
hand, a shoe, etc.) to scale.

Ceramics 2 - Make handbuilt objects that are not necessarily "pots" per se, such as masks,
and introduce primitive finishing and firing methods. Historical references include native
American, Mata Ortiz and Santa Fe potters. Next, explore form by producing pieces that are
functional. Make pitchers in various shapes and discuss why and how certain shapes may not
be viable for function even tho they LOOK like pitchers. Talk about balance and the
relationship between the size and shape of the main body and the size and shape of the
HANDLE or any other attachments. Introduce 'em to claybody contents as noted below.
Introduce surface manipulation to include sgrafitto, carving, texture. Introduce various
glaze and/or decoration techniques including underglazes, glaze sgrafitto, wax resist,
slips, washes, etc.
Focus should be on QUALITY not quantity of work, and only fire the pieces that you and the
students agree are their best work. My college Ceramics professor always threatened to do
this and never did. He should have.

Ceramics 3 students should be learning about firing techniques and visiting a working
pottery if possible. I would also consider allowing them to be responsible for firing
student work (with supervision of course!). Their projects should be more complicated, such
as producing sets of related objects, and I think I'd allow them to develop their own path
of study for whatever part of ceramics they are most interested in. You'll probably have
fewer Ceramics 3 students; they may learn wheel work on their own and be able to incorporate
it into their class work. They should be able to explain the techniques used to create
their work in simple terms, and should also be able to assist Ceramics I students if
necessary. (Hey, if you've GOTTA have newbies in the class, it's good experience for the
"oldies" to help out and show what they know - sorta like a hands-on test). If you have a
huge number of folks interested in throwing, see about getting the shop classes to build you
a couple of kickwheels.

> BTW, the "core" ceramics teacher plans on doing one week sign-ups for every student to
> work on the wheel after school. This sign-up will apply to students in my class also.

More power to him if he has that kind of time!!!!

> As for the clay body composition I feel some what embarrassed to say I do not know
> enough about it to teach it. Is there a good web source you know about that details
> this? I am always eager to learn.

don't know any web pages, but Glenn Nelson's book is a good textbook with basic technical
information. Claybodies are generally made up of various types and textures of clay (ball
clay, kaolin, fireclay), feldspar, silica, and sometimes sand or "grog", which is ground up
fired clay added for 'tooth' (standing strength). Higher iron-bearing bodies generally fire
in lower temps because iron will flux at higher temps and you'll end up with a LOVELY
melted clay patty where your beautiful mug used to be in the kiln (ask me how I know ;) }

Somebody else asked about paper clay. This is a claybody that has had a percentage of clay
replaced by paper pulp. You can buy your own p-clay premade, you can make your own by
tearing up toilet paper into water and adding clay, you can wedge dry paper mache' pulp into
clay. I haven't used much paperclay myself, but I am given to understand that it can be
thrown, slabbed, or generally treated in any way regular clay is treated, but when fired the
paper burns out and the piece is then lighter in weight than it would normally be. I'm told
that pclay is really good for sculptural pieces as well. Just be absolutely sure your
students keep Pclay separate from regular clay at all times. Paper clay WILL be a big ol'
stinkeroo, so be aware of that.

Having trouble with "parts" falling off those masterpieces? Make yourself some magic mender
and you can rejoin even bone dry pieces and they'll fire together no problem. I don't know
why it works; I'm sure there's something about paper fibers and clay particles..... I just
know that it does work, and I have mug handles to prove it.

To make your magic mender, you need say, 2 cups of slip, toilet paper, a blender, and
vinegar. Start with about a cup of vinegar and put it in the blender. Tear toilet paper
into shreds and put them in the blender with vinegar. Zap TP in vinegar, adding TP until
the blend is about the same consistency as the slip you have. Blend the slip and TP/Vinegar
together with a wire whisk and put the whole shebang into a container separate from other
slips/clays. Over time, this stuff will turn black, and will smell like the pit of hell
vinaigrette. Just hold your nose and paint it on wherever needed to stick 2 clay things
together, fire when dry. I have used this to attach bone dry pieces and it works where
nothing else will.

Have fun!
L 

---

This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon Jan 31 2000 - 23:14:13 PST