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Re: Plaster and wedging table Deb M

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From: Joe Cox (bjcoxteachart_at_TeacherArtExchange)
Date: Sun Aug 24 2003 - 18:18:10 PDT


I let it dissolve completely. After the clay had dissolved and is settled to the bottom of the bucket I will stir it up to mix it all up with the water. This makes a really watery slip. This is when I let it settle again and pour off the excess water. Now if the clay pieces are still moist when you try to reclaim it, the clay won't dissolve completely. If for some reason the clay don't dissolve completely and there are lumps in the clay, they usually break up in the cutting and wedging with the wire on my wedging table.

Do you have a lot of clay that needs to be reclaimed. At the end of each year I fill an old freezer chest full of dry clay and fill that with water. Then I stiffen off the top layer of water and let it dry over the summer by about mid summer I close the door of the freezer and we have clay for the beginning of the year. The kids learn how to wedge with this clay. I give them a really watery, messy lump of clay and teach them how to wedge it. If they have a real problem with getting there hands messy they usually get out of my ceramic class. If they aren't willing to get they hands dirty they need to be in another art class. At least that is my opinion.

Joe
:-)

----- Original Message -----
From: Jayna Huffines
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 8:52 PM
To: ArtsEdNet Talk
Subject: Re: Plaster and wedging table Deb M

OK- while the clay is dissolving should it get to the point where it is watery? In other words, how much do I let it "dissolve"?

Joe Cox <bjcoxteachart@msn.com> wrote:
Jayna,
I just fill a 5 gallon bucket half full of bone dried clay such as old project that got too dry or scraps of clay that dried out, even large blocks of clay. They have to be bone dry and I never break them up (creates too much dust). Then fill the bucket with water until the clay pieces are covered and let the clay dissolves in the water. Don't stir the clay or try and mix it up, just let it set. It takes a couple of days for the clay to dissolve, I then pour off the excess water and let the clay dry out some. Usually when the edge of the clay separates from the side of the bucket or the top begins to crack. After a week or so of letting the clay dry out I will scoop out the clay onto plaster bats and let the plaster pull out enough moisture from the clay until it is dry enough to wedge. Last I wedge the clay until it is plastic enough to work with.

I usually have students do this in small quantities at the beginning of the year, so that they know how to do it.

Hope this helps.
Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: Jayna Huffines
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 5:00 PM
To: ArtsEdNet Talk
Subject: Re: Plaster and wedging table Deb M

You mentioned reclaiming clay in a previous post, and you sound knowledgeable about it- what's the best way to do this? In small batches, or what?
Thanks, Jayna
Joe Cox <bjcoxteachart@msn.com> wrote:
Deb M. I always work on plaster because the plaster pulls moisture from the clay. If your clay is already pretty dry you might wedge it on canvas but I wouldn't cover the plaster with it. We have a lot of boards cover with canvas that I have the students wedge on if the clay is on the dry side.

Hope this helps.
Blessings,
Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: Deb M.
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 9:36 AM
To: ArtsEdNet Talk
Subject: Re: Plaster and wedging table

We just got a metal wedging table and I was wondering if you need to cover
the plaster with canvas once it's in the table, or if you can just wedge the
clay on the plaster. Every table I've ever seen has canvas over the
plaster.

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